Once the interior was finished I flipped the boat back over and finished the exterior.
The first task for the exterior finishing were the runners. I made these out of 3/4 x 3/4 strips of spruce. I used the dimensions on the plans to space them out, applied epoxy and screwed them into the frame pieces.
Once the epoxy cured I used a plan to share the front edge of the runners so that they slopped flush at the front edge.
I finished up sanding, filling, sanding, filling and more sanding until the bottom was fair and smooth.
I applied the same primer and yellow boat paint to the bottom of the boat. I used 3 coats of paint.
I applied a name to the back (because every boat deserves a name!) using black paint. I chose the name Mâthos since my sailboat is named Salammbô and Mâthos was her lover.
Once dry I fitted the remaining hardware (cleats and oarlocks) as well as adding a bump rail to the gunwales. For the bump rail I used 1" rope tie wrapped to the gunwales.
I am exceptionally happy with how Mâthos turned out. She is a very good rowing boat, pulls very well behind the sailboat and is remarkably stable. I can fit my family of 4, our dog and a days supplies in her and still have 6" or freeboard (approx 645lbs). I wouldn't want to go out in rough water with that much weight though! I've had her with one other person in heavy waves with no issue at all. A very dry tender.
I have also purchased a small 30lbs thrust electric motor to use on the back of her and it works very well for ferrying us out to the mooring with no effort.
I would highly recommend John Gardner's "A plywood Pram". The instructions in his book are a little sparse but the boat comes together well. If you attempt a build of the boat and have any questions about how I did something, please ask. I'll answer the question as best I can and update these pages as appropriate as well.
I would also welcome additions/amendments to my instructions. This has worked out well with my loft bed plans. Collaboration with a couple of builders has made the instructions much more useful.
Tuesday, July 5, 2011
Tuesday, June 7, 2011
Pram build - Step 7 - Interior finishing
Once the seats and gunwales were dry I set about cleaning up the interior. I used thickened epoxy to fill in any gaps, voids or holes. Everything was sanded once the epoxy set.
I also used this opportunity to install a ring on the bow. This will be used for towing the tender so I wanted it to be sturdy. I was also impatient on a Sunday and didn't have access to a real piece of hardware. I used an old shackle and epoxied it in place. Seems to work well.
Once everything was cleaned up reasonably well I finished the interior with a coat of oil based primer and oil based boat paint.
I wanted to finish the interior first so that I wouldn't scrape the bottom paint later on in the process.
Once everything dried I flipped the boat over for exterior finishing.
I also used this opportunity to install a ring on the bow. This will be used for towing the tender so I wanted it to be sturdy. I was also impatient on a Sunday and didn't have access to a real piece of hardware. I used an old shackle and epoxied it in place. Seems to work well.
Once everything was cleaned up reasonably well I finished the interior with a coat of oil based primer and oil based boat paint.
I wanted to finish the interior first so that I wouldn't scrape the bottom paint later on in the process.
Once everything dried I flipped the boat over for exterior finishing.
Next Step
Pram build - Step 6 - Seats and Gunwales
Once the epoxy work was completed on the outside I unscrewed the boat from the supports and flipped it over. I removed all of the extra bracing and build forms. The boat sits well on the 2x4 building jig so I've continued to use that as a working platform.
The next step was to complete the seats and install the gunwales. First the seats:
I used 1x4 stock that I had previously ripped out of 1x6 spruce to frame the seats.
I built the simple frames as shown in the pictures.The front and back seats were built off of the existing mold pieces at station 1 and 5. There were built to be filled with foam and sealed. The middle seat was built open so that items could be stored underneath.
For foam I used primarily some pool noodles. I cut them into shorter pieces and crammed them into the spaces as tightly as I possible.
The top of the seats are made out of 1/4 plywood. Everything was glued with epoxy.
Before assembling the seats I liberally applied wood preservative to the inside surfaces. Since the inside of the seats might get damp I thought it would help prevent rot.
The gunwales were very simple to assemble. I simply used 1 1/4"x1" strips of spruce. These were fastened with screws and glued with epoxy. I glued the gunwales on longer than necessary and then cut them off after they had dried.
The next step was to complete the seats and install the gunwales. First the seats:
I used 1x4 stock that I had previously ripped out of 1x6 spruce to frame the seats.
I built the simple frames as shown in the pictures.The front and back seats were built off of the existing mold pieces at station 1 and 5. There were built to be filled with foam and sealed. The middle seat was built open so that items could be stored underneath.
For foam I used primarily some pool noodles. I cut them into shorter pieces and crammed them into the spaces as tightly as I possible.
The top of the seats are made out of 1/4 plywood. Everything was glued with epoxy.
Before assembling the seats I liberally applied wood preservative to the inside surfaces. Since the inside of the seats might get damp I thought it would help prevent rot.
The gunwales were very simple to assemble. I simply used 1 1/4"x1" strips of spruce. These were fastened with screws and glued with epoxy. I glued the gunwales on longer than necessary and then cut them off after they had dried.
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